I’m typing this part of the post from the lobby of the Metropolitan Hotel in Tel Aviv. while I sit here with my sister, Karen, who is desperately trying to finish reading a book on my Kindle before she returns to the States later this evening. I’m having some "natool" and trying to organize this blog entry. It’s been surprisingly hard for me to go these past 10+ days without writing regularly in the blog. I feel like there is a lot about which I want to write, but also fear that if I don’t blog soon about specific details and pictures of our recent travels, I might not actually blog about them at all. (See, for example, the lack-of-late-August post about my birthday and the-lack-of-two-weeks-ago post about my Dad and my visit to the Old City…)
I’ve been to the Old City in Jerusalem 3 times this month. As I mentioned previously, Dad and I toured a couple of weeks ago with Shmuel Browns, a "m'oreh derech" (tour guide, or literally, "teacher of the way") whom Pentheus and I know from when Shmuel and his family lived in Cambridge several years ago. Shmuel took us to a bunch of places to where Dad and I had either never been or certainly hadn’t been in 25+ years.
We first spent a lot of time at the Temple Mount, a sacred, holy place for both Judaism and Islam. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temple_Mount) The Temple Mount is also revered by Christians as a place Jesus visited frequently, and some Christians believe it will play a key role in end-time events. The political and religious issues concerning the Temple Mount are difficult ones, to say the least. Because both Israel and the Palestinian Authority claim sovereignty over the site, it is a huge point of contention in the Arab-Israeli conflict. (Note: while I looked at a bunch of sources while I wrote this entry, I apologize in advance for any and all errors on my part concerning the Temple Mount's history, significance both politically and religiously, current governance, etc. It was very hard to describe the Temple Mount.)
We first spent a lot of time at the Temple Mount, a sacred, holy place for both Judaism and Islam. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temple_Mount) The Temple Mount is also revered by Christians as a place Jesus visited frequently, and some Christians believe it will play a key role in end-time events. The political and religious issues concerning the Temple Mount are difficult ones, to say the least. Because both Israel and the Palestinian Authority claim sovereignty over the site, it is a huge point of contention in the Arab-Israeli conflict. (Note: while I looked at a bunch of sources while I wrote this entry, I apologize in advance for any and all errors on my part concerning the Temple Mount's history, significance both politically and religiously, current governance, etc. It was very hard to describe the Temple Mount.)
Judaism regards the Temple Mount as the place where G-d chose the Divine Presence to rest (Isaiah 8:18). King Solomon built the first Temple here in the 10th century B.C.E., but the Temple was destroyed by the Babylonians in 586 B.C.E. The second Temple was constructed at the same site by the Jews who returned from the Babylonian capitivity, and it was destroyed by the Romans in 70 C.E. After the destruction of the first two Temples, only the Western Wall (the Kotel) remained standing. The Dome of the Rock, a shrine located at the Temple Mount, occupies or is close to the area where a third Temple would be built. This area is also called the “kadosh kedoshim” (Holy of Holies). (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dome_of_the_Rock) In addition, the Temple Mount is where Abraham's binding of Isaac occurred and where G-d created Adam.
The Temple Mount is widely considered to be the third holiest site in the Muslim faith. The Dome of the Rock is believed to be built over a sacred stone, which was the location of Mohammed’s journey to Jerusalem and ascent to Heaven. The Al-Aqsa Mosque, used daily by Muslims for their prayers, and an Islamic Museum are also located on the Temple Mount. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temple_Mount)
The Temple Mount is governed by the Supreme Muslim Religious Council (the Waqf, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jerusalem_Islamic_Waqf) but has been controlled by the Israeli government since Israel conquered and reclaimed East Jerusalem in the Six-Day War of 1967. For security reasons, the Israeli government implemented a controversial ban on any prayer on the Temple Mount by non-Muslims, i.e., Jews and Christians. (Here's a December 2011 opinion piece on the restriction of prayer. http://www.wnd.com/2011/12/376925/. I don't necessarily agree with everything in the article but wanted to include it in the post because i think it is interesting.)
The Temple Mount is widely considered to be the third holiest site in the Muslim faith. The Dome of the Rock is believed to be built over a sacred stone, which was the location of Mohammed’s journey to Jerusalem and ascent to Heaven. The Al-Aqsa Mosque, used daily by Muslims for their prayers, and an Islamic Museum are also located on the Temple Mount. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Temple_Mount)
The Temple Mount is governed by the Supreme Muslim Religious Council (the Waqf, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jerusalem_Islamic_Waqf) but has been controlled by the Israeli government since Israel conquered and reclaimed East Jerusalem in the Six-Day War of 1967. For security reasons, the Israeli government implemented a controversial ban on any prayer on the Temple Mount by non-Muslims, i.e., Jews and Christians. (Here's a December 2011 opinion piece on the restriction of prayer. http://www.wnd.com/2011/12/376925/. I don't necessarily agree with everything in the article but wanted to include it in the post because i think it is interesting.)
Because it is an active prayer site, the Temple Mount area is only open to visitors at limited times. For example, on the Wednesday morning that Dad and I went to the Temple Mount, it was open 7:30 am- 10 am and then again for an hour in the early afternoon. We certainly had to go through a lot of security at the Temple Mount – a long line to enter the x-ray machine, plus a guard looking at, and through, all of our belongings. While Dad and I were there with Shmuel, we saw a small group of religious Jews, accompanied by both private Israeli guards carrying guns and two uniformed Waqf authorities, touring the Temple Mount. To be honest, we could sense the tension between the Jews and Muslims. Non-Muslims are typically not allowed to enter any of the buildings on the Temple Mount, although, according to Shmuel, the Waqf guards sometimes make exceptions for non-Jews.
At any rate, Shmuel spent a long time telling us about the Temple Mount, and it was fascinating. Despite the complicated issues involved, there can be no doubt regarding the beauty of these buildings, especially the Dome of the Rock. Look at the intricate work on the sides of the building, and the magnitude of it as compared to the size of the people visiting it:
At any rate, Shmuel spent a long time telling us about the Temple Mount, and it was fascinating. Despite the complicated issues involved, there can be no doubt regarding the beauty of these buildings, especially the Dome of the Rock. Look at the intricate work on the sides of the building, and the magnitude of it as compared to the size of the people visiting it:
It’s funny because I thought (or I guess, assumed) that the Dome of the Rock always had the shiny gold overlay on the dome because that's what I have seen on every postcard of the Old City in Jerusalem. Shmuel explained that the gold cover was added and modernized within the past 45-55 years, and that before then, it had always been silver-pewter colored, like on most other holy Islamic buildings.
Shmuel took us to the rooftop of the Austrian Hospice buidling, where the views of Jerusalem were gorgeous:
We spent some time with Shmuel going down Via Dolorosa (the Signs of the Cross) to learn more about the Old City's significance to the Christian community as well. (http://www.sacred-destinations.com/israel/jerusalem-via-dolorosa) We went to the site of several ancient Bethesda pools in the Old City, where archaeologists have uncovered enough to enable us to see an entire corner of the huge pool. (http://www.seetheholyland.net/pools-of-bethesda/) One spot in the Bethesda pool is marked as the location where Jesus healed a paralyzed man, who had waited for 38 years for someone to help him into the pool, which had curative powers. According to an ancient tradition, Bethesda is also where Mary was born and where Mary's parents (Anne and Joachim) lived. We went inside the Church of St. Anne, built around 1140 B.C.E. The St. Anne Church is known for its phenomenal acoustics, and groups of any size can sing in the church, as long as the songs are of a religious nature. While Dad and I were there, we heard several choirs of tour groups sing in the building. Here's a video of one such choir, although my video certainly doesn't capture the beauty of the building and their voices:
Shmuel took us to the rooftop of the Austrian Hospice buidling, where the views of Jerusalem were gorgeous:
We spent some time with Shmuel going down Via Dolorosa (the Signs of the Cross) to learn more about the Old City's significance to the Christian community as well. (http://www.sacred-destinations.com/israel/jerusalem-via-dolorosa) We went to the site of several ancient Bethesda pools in the Old City, where archaeologists have uncovered enough to enable us to see an entire corner of the huge pool. (http://www.seetheholyland.net/pools-of-bethesda/) One spot in the Bethesda pool is marked as the location where Jesus healed a paralyzed man, who had waited for 38 years for someone to help him into the pool, which had curative powers. According to an ancient tradition, Bethesda is also where Mary was born and where Mary's parents (Anne and Joachim) lived. We went inside the Church of St. Anne, built around 1140 B.C.E. The St. Anne Church is known for its phenomenal acoustics, and groups of any size can sing in the church, as long as the songs are of a religious nature. While Dad and I were there, we heard several choirs of tour groups sing in the building. Here's a video of one such choir, although my video certainly doesn't capture the beauty of the building and their voices:
(If this video doesn't open on the blog, you can try St. Anne Church, Tour group choir, October 23, 2012 on You Tube.)
While Dad and I were in the Old City with Shmuel, we did not go to the Western Wall. We decided that because we already knew a lot about the Kotel and because we could go there ourselves at any point, that we should use our time with Shmuel to learn about and see other things. But, last Thursday (when we were back from our travels and the boys were back in school), Dad, Karen and I went to the Kotel, so that Karen could experience it for the first time. After going through security, a woman from the Western Wall Heritage Foundation gave Karen a navy blue poncho, so that Karen could cover her shoulders, as women are not allowed to be sleeveless or in short skirts. Dad went to the men’s side, while Karen and I went to the women’s side. The women we saw at the Kotel varied dramatically. We saw one religious woman, sobbing non-stop and fervently praying, while placing one hand on the Wall. No matter how many times I go to the Kotel, I always insist on touching the Wall and feeling the smooth stones. Some women sat on white, plastic chairs and prayed using the Jewish prayer books provided by the Foundation at a table near the Wall. Still other women stood on the plastic chairs to look over at the men's side to see what was happening there.
It was moving for me to see Karen at the Kotel. Karen thought the Kotel was impressive; she hadn’t realized it was so large. To be fair, I’m always surprised by the size of the Kotel as well. It’s amazing to think about how many centuries the Kotel has stood and the many stories that have occurred there.
Here are some other pictures of our visit to the Western Wall, including a photo of the Dome of the Rock peeking out from behind the Kotel.
After Karen and I left the Western Wall, we returned to the dira to pack up for an overnight trip to Tel Aviv. I had debated whether Karen should go to Tel Aviv this trip (as opposed to spending another day in Jerusalem), but our other sister strongly (and correctly - as always!) argued that Karen should see the modern, bustling city of Tel Aviv. Tel Aviv refers to itself as "Hatapooz Hagahdol" ("The Big Orange" - yes, as compared to the Big Apple of NYC) and is the financial center of Israel. It boasts of big buildings, big nightlife, and big crowds.
Shmuelik, the taxi driver whom we have used before, drove us to Tel Aviv, and we arrived at the Metropolitan Hotel around 4:15 pm. We almost immediately went to the beach about a block and a half from the hotel to sit on the sand and watch the sunset.
Shmuelik, the taxi driver whom we have used before, drove us to Tel Aviv, and we arrived at the Metropolitan Hotel around 4:15 pm. We almost immediately went to the beach about a block and a half from the hotel to sit on the sand and watch the sunset.
We then went to Yotvata B'eer, the delicious dairy restaurant where Dad, the boys and I went for both dinner and breakfast when we were in Tel Aviv two weeks ago. I love Yotvata B'eer, and Karen and I both very much enjoyed our meals.
After dinner, we walked from the beach to Dizengoff Center, a big mall/shopping center in the heart of downtown Tel Aviv, and then had some gleeda during our walk back to the hotel. Once we returned to our room , we watched television and read. Karen fell asleep relatively early but I had a hard time falling (and staying) asleep. I was up until after 12:30 and awake before 6 am (which made me pretty cranky during the day).
Karen and I had an Israeli breakfast at the restaurant in the Metropolitan Hotel and then set off walking to "Keekar Rabin" (Rabin Square) where Yitzchak Rabin, then Israel's Prime Minister, was assassinated in November 1995. I didn't think the Rabin memorial was marked very well, and I was disappointed in that. I have heard that the Rabin Center in Tel Aviv is great, and I hope to go there before we leave to return to the States.
From Keekar Rabin, Karen and I took a taxi to Old Yaffo, the port area that is now incorporated as part of Tel Aviv. We stopped by Ayal Shifron's (my old beau from 7th grade) studio, so that Karen could talk to Ayal, but he wasn't there and the studio was closed. We wandered around Old Yaffo for a while, and we poked in a few of the galleries and jewelry stores. I love being in Old Yaffo and think it's beautiful.
We then decided to walk back to our hotel (and to the beach!) from Old Yaffo. It was a good long walk, and I'm glad we did it. For the rest of the afternoon, Karen and I sat on the beach, read, and relaxed. Karen refers to the beach as her "happy place" and I definitely think she has the right idea!
After several hours at the beach, we had an early dinner at a restaurant on Borgashov Street and got pedicures. I hadn't had a pedicure since before Rosh Hashanah (mid-September), and I was so happy to get one! Afterwards, Karen and I sat in the Metropolitan lobby for a while before leaving to drop her off at the airport. Karen read fervently the book on my Kindle, and I typed out the draft text for this blog post.
We then decided to walk back to our hotel (and to the beach!) from Old Yaffo. It was a good long walk, and I'm glad we did it. For the rest of the afternoon, Karen and I sat on the beach, read, and relaxed. Karen refers to the beach as her "happy place" and I definitely think she has the right idea!
After several hours at the beach, we had an early dinner at a restaurant on Borgashov Street and got pedicures. I hadn't had a pedicure since before Rosh Hashanah (mid-September), and I was so happy to get one! Afterwards, Karen and I sat in the Metropolitan lobby for a while before leaving to drop her off at the airport. Karen read fervently the book on my Kindle, and I typed out the draft text for this blog post.
We took a "mohneet" (taxicab) to the airport from the hotel. The flat-rate from Tel Aviv to the airport is 130 shekels before 9 pm and 150 shekels after. It was about 8:55 pm, and the driver offered us a rate of 140 shekels, which seemed fair. It was hard to say goodbye to Karen at the airport, even though I know I will see her in a few months. I am so glad Karen came to visit and happy that we spent time together in Israel.
I took the airport "sheiroot" (shuttle, I guess is the best way to describe it) back to Jerusalem. The sheirut ended up not leaving the airport until after 10:35 as we had to wait until all 10 seats were filled before traveling to Jerusalem. When we entered Jerusalem at around 11:45 pm, we saw 4 or 5 Hassidic men, in full Hassidic garb, struggling to carry a large rose-colored couch across a major Jerusalem street. It was very amusing to me, although I bet it wasn't so funny to them. I got back to the dira after 12:20 am, so I had another late night. I was hoping to go to sleep early this evening but it's almost midnight as I push "publish" for this post!!
No comments:
Post a Comment